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Device Checks

Gamepad Test — Buttons, Sticks, Triggers, Drift

Plug in or pair a controller. Press buttons, move sticks, pull triggers — every input lights up the visualizer. Built-in drift detector reads stick resting positions.

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Connect a controller

Plug in a USB controller or pair via Bluetooth. Press any button on the controller to wake it up — browsers don't show controllers until they receive input.

Works with Xbox (Series, One, Elite), PlayStation (DualShock 4, DualSense), Switch Pro, Joy-Con, 8BitDo, and most generic gamepads.

Frequently asked questions

What is stick drift?

Stick drift is when an analog stick reports input while you're not touching it — usually because the potentiometer or hall sensor inside has worn down. The cursor or character drifts slowly in one direction. This test detects drift by reading the stick's resting value: anything more than ±0.05 from center suggests drift. The Xbox Series controller and DualSense both have known drift issues; Hall-effect controllers (8BitDo, GuliKit) are immune.

Why doesn't my controller show up?

Most likely you haven't pressed any button yet. The Gamepad API only exposes the controller after you give it input — press any button to wake it up. Other causes: a flaky USB cable (try another), a Bluetooth controller that needs re-pairing, or a controller that uses a proprietary driver (some old PlayStation 3 controllers need DS3 driver software).

Does this work with Xbox / PlayStation / Switch controllers?

Yes — all standard controllers work over USB or Bluetooth in modern browsers. Xbox controllers (Series, One, Elite) work natively. PlayStation 4 and 5 controllers (DualShock 4, DualSense) work but the button mapping varies by browser. Switch Pro Controller works over Bluetooth in Chrome and Edge. Joy-Cons connect individually as separate gamepads.

Why are my buttons mapped differently?

The Gamepad API uses a 'standard' mapping when the browser knows the controller, but for unknown controllers it exposes raw button indices that may not match Xbox's labels. If A and B appear swapped, you likely have a Switch-style controller that uses Nintendo's lettering convention — physically the bottom button on Nintendo is B, while on Xbox it's A. Browser usually normalizes this, but not always.

Can I test the vibration?

Yes — most controllers expose vibration via the Gamepad Haptics API. Click the rumble button below to trigger a test pulse. It works on Chrome and Edge for Xbox and PlayStation controllers. Firefox has limited haptic support. If nothing happens, your controller may not expose haptics, or the browser hasn't implemented it for your specific model.

What's a good drift threshold?

Most controllers have a small built-in deadzone (typically 0.08 to 0.15) — values inside that range are treated as zero by games. If the resting reading is under 0.05, you're well within deadzone tolerance. Above 0.10 means drift is becoming noticeable in games with low deadzone settings. Above 0.20 is severe — replace the stick or the controller.

How do I fix stick drift without replacing the controller?

Two short-term fixes: (1) blow compressed air around the stick base — sometimes dust is the cause; (2) increase the in-game deadzone to mask the drift. Long-term: replace the stick module yourself (about $15 for the part, requires a small soldering job) or send it for warranty service. Hall-effect replacement modules eliminate drift permanently for $25-40.

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